The New Generation


The New Generation


The New Generation

Jasmin Forever

The New Generation

Dolce Mare

The New Generation

Wednesday, October 30, 2013


The idea that a wooden boat has a higher maintenance requirement is no longer true. While rot, peeling paint, and worm damage once gave a small degree of credence to this argument, materials such as epoxy resins, urethane coatings, marine-grade plywood, and hi-tech caulks and glues have long since ended that concern. All boats require maintenance but a properly constructed wooden boat will require no additional effort over an equal boat of alternate construction.

The many natural attributes of wood combined with modern materials offers the best of both worlds. Wood also provides inherent design flexibility which results in hull forms that are light, stable, and strong. This further translates into fuel efficiency for the powered craft and speed for the sailing variety.

In many ways then, the question becomes one of aesthetics and in this area there are few that will deny the unsurpassed, timeless beauty of wood. So why wood... perhaps simply because wood speaks to the heart and satisfies the senses in a way that synthetic materials never will. A wooden boat continues a tradition that spans the centuries and will always be the choice of the nautical connoisseur and those who value the qualities of the natural world.

How to Look after Wood

Of all woods, teak is considered to be the most noble, durable and decadent. Especially luxury yachts use if excessively for decks and decorations. Caring for teak is a different issue – surely, it is a very strong material, but there are a couple of things to keep in mind with teak care. In this article, I try to give to practical advice for proud teak-owners.

Teak is a noble wood; it is expensive and should be treated with consideration. Generally speaking, Teak requires little care compared to other woods. It is hard and durable and for these reasons, has been used in Southeast Asia for centuries. If exposed to the air, untreated teak bleaches to a noble grey or mousy with a shiny surface.

If you are an environmental sailor, like me, you should either avoid teak or check where it comes from and if it was lumbered legally. Teak is a tropical wood and in many Third World countries, native forests are sacrificed to the wood industries. Teak is very evenly patterned and rich in oils. It is the oils that make it unattractive to termites, which is partly the reason for its popularity in Asia.

Like essentially all woods, even teak might need some protection to extend its lifetime. There are several ways of protecting teak, and they all aim for mainly two things: Protection of the oil content in the wood itself on the one hand and sealing off hazards like UV radiation, water and fungi.

Paint, oil or varnish

Apart from crudely painting over the wood (which is commonly done with all sorts of wooden things, because it is cheap and requires little maintenance efforts, but should be avoided with luxury woods like teak), or leaving it untreated, you can protect teak by applying varnish or oil and seals.

If your teak is not oiled, sealed or varnished at all, there is no need to panic: Many boat owners prefer plain teak, even if it might lose its shiny touch after a while. Depending on the local climate in your area, it might well be possible to leave your teak untreated. If in doubt, ask sailors from your area for advice – they should know what products and treatments are best for protecting your wood.

Regardless of what protective layer you decide to get, you should always start with cleaning the wood unless it is newly bought. There are detergents available that are specifically developed for the needs of teak. To wash the wood, use warm water with a mild detergent and a small amount of bleach as an alternative to “special teak detergent”. Apply this solution, let it soak for a bit and rinse it off with clear water.

Wood on boats needs to be clean

If the first treatment did not lead to the desired result, repeat it and increase the concentration of detergent and bleach. Be careful though, teak is sensitive and you should not destroy the surface by chemical means or through rubbing wildly. Use soft brushes or cloth. If you decided to go for “professional” teak detergent, follow the instructions. After rinsing the wood, let it clean in a warm, well-ventilated spot.

Once the wood has dried, you can go for the varnish: It is generally composed of protective waxes, solvents such as alcohol, and other substances with specific effects such as sunscreen-like chemicals that will absorb harmful UV radiation. Especially if you are from a very sunny area and you need varnish for teak on the deck, check for products with highly protective properties with respect to UV.

Do not try to safe money on the varnish! Low-quality varnish might spoil your wood, and it would be a waste of the luxury teak. You should apply several layers of varnish, at least six are generally recommended. Renew at least one layer of varnish once every couple of weeks and before winterizing the boat.

Teak care with oil versus lacquer finishes

A more natural alternative to varnish is oil. There are hundreds of products available, many of them specifically developed for the needs of teak. They replace natural oils in the wood and thereby enhance the look of it and prevent the formation of cracks, fungal growth and the penetration of water.

Wood oils are made of linseed oil and much like varnish, often come with other ingredients such as sun blockers, solvents or water repellents. Some oils tend to darken the wood, so be careful to buy only oils that were developed for teak and outdoor-applications.

Apply oil generously, but avoid drops to sit, as they will leave unattractive stains on the wood. Let the teak dry in a warm and well-ventilated place. Repeat this procedure at least three times and renew the oil once every few weeks during the summer and once before winterizing the yacht.

Finally: Seal your boat

To protect oiled wood even more, you can apply sealers as a finish. They generally consist of resins and solvents with the mentioned additives. Don’t seal wood for at least two weeks after the oiling, since “greasy” wood will not hold the sealer. Wash the wood slightly with soap to remove oil from the surface, rinse it and dry it properly.

Then apply the sealer in a thin layer, let it dry and repeat the treatment. Three layers of sealer should be plenty (follow the instructions given for outdoor conditions), and depending on the quality and strength of the sealer, it won’t have to be renewed for weeks or even months.


Pine (pinos strobus, pinos resinosa, pinos nigra, pinus palustris) is the most abundant local wood suitable for building gulets. It is widely available along the interior of the Aegean coast and the least expensive material available for builders. Live pine trees can be chosen by the builder and cut down to exact dimensions and specifications. The drawback to using pine is its long life especially under water if it is regulary maintenanced well, there are red, white and black types. With the recent trend towards progressively longer, more luxurious gulets, Bodrum builders began to use alternatives to white pine for increased strength and durability.


Imported African mahogany, available from Istanbul wholesalers, became a favored material due to its medium weight and resistance to decay. Mahogany is available in many different grades and qualities and good quality mahogany also makes an excellent exterior finish material. The best mahoganies are Khaya ivorensis, Sipo utile, Sapeli aboudikro and Niangon nyankom. (ref) There are also varieties of mahogany not well suited for building gulets, which reinforces the fact that choice of reputable boatyard and suppliers is of paramount importance in the commissioning of a gulet. It is suggested specially for interior and frames.


Perhaps the most durable but also the heaviest and most expensive wood used to build gulets is Iroko. The natural oils found in Iroko prevent water absorption, impede shrinkage, and many feel that it becomes increasingly beautiful with age and use. However, the weight of Iroko can alter the sailing and handling of the vessel and must be factored into the design of the boat. It is suggested for frames.

Mulberry and Oak

Some premium builders prefer the durability of mulberry or oak frames for gulets, but working with these particular woods involves a longer aging process as well as one of the increasingly rare craftsmen (usta) with experience using them. Increasingly builders are using laminated epoxy constructed frames with traditional planking, or epoxy frames with diagonal veneer planking. Again, mahogany is usually the choice of wood.


How to Winterize a Gulet

Winterizing a boat is a necessary task that comes along every year. Unfortunately, there are plenty of small mistakes one could make that might damage the boat. This article should help you think about how to prepare your boat for the frost.

In case you live in an area with a harsh climate, it is likely that you will have to winterize your boat. How much time and effort this will require vastly depends on the size of Gulet we are talking about – it might be as short as a few hours dedicated to your small Gulet, or several weeks of sporadic work if you have to winterize a large Gulet.

In any case the work normally starts with a decent clean-up; remove all gear, personal items and anything that doesn’t belong to the boat itself. Wash the decks, windows, pillows or whatever else comes along your way. You might want to use your boat as a storage space for gear or personal items (kitchen tools in the galley, for example, or rudders, ropes and alike). Even if this is the case, you should clear the boat and clean it before you add these items. Everything stored on the boat should be kept in boxes and storage– however; putting these things into place aboard should be the last step in the winterization ceremony.

Check the boat for water traps: Ice has a lower density than liquid water, which goes along with an increased volume. In other words: wherever there is water caught, cracks might occur in the spring. Drain all water from pipes on the boat by disconnecting them. Some pieces of equipment such as pumps, the engine or the toilet might be supposed to keep some water.

Avoid frost damages by removing water

In that case they are normally on the safe side with no risk of frost damages. However, if you are in doubt, stick with the instruction sheet of the respective piece of gear. Don’t forget to check exhaustion pipes – they often catch water which might cause corrosion or even heavy frost damages.

Remove all electronic devices. Once again, the amount of work dedicated to this will depend on the type of boat you are winterizing. Especially with cruisers that hold a lot of electronic gimmicks, make sure that you label every bit of wire that you remove. Store them in a dry place that doesn’t get too cold (no frost!). In spring you will be grateful for every single label that will tell you which wire needs to be connected to what plug.

If you have batteries on your boat, charge them fully and then remove them from the boat in case you expect frost. Make sure to grease the terminals to prevent corrosion damages. Depending on the type of batteries, they might be grateful for an occasional slow discharge and recharge during the winter. Ask the manufacturer about this.

Making your yacht worthy

Removing batteries and electronics will also keep them from getting stolen if you keep your boat in the water rather than indoors. You might want to do the same with other “valuable” bits: the propeller, brass-items, outboard, fire extinguisher, first-aid box, buoyancy…long winter evenings are great for checking and possibly repairing or replacing things like these for the next season.

Winterizing an engine is a major task by itself, even if it is only an auxiliary engine. Fill the engine’s fuel tank until it is almost full – allow some room to remain in the tank for expansion. Add some stabilizer; change the oil in the engine and gearbox after operating the engine for a few minutes to warm up the old oil contents; then, change the oil filters, too.

Clean the surface of the engine, tilt all loose parts, oil it up or apply anti-freeze substances to prevent corrosion and frost-damages on the surface parts.

A sleeping beauty waiting for spring

Store the equipments in boxes in a dry, not too cold place: ropes, lines and canvas are might need some cleaning before the winter, too. Finally, cover your boat: if the boat stays outside or even in the water, a decent, water-proof and well-fitting cover is mandatory. Make sure that water will not get caught in pockets and fix the cover properly. Check the cover occasionally during the winter.

Rigging & Sails

The Mast and Balance of the Topsides

At the mast have a close look at the limber hole in the base of the mast and make sure that it is clear; you would be amazed how much salt water gets inside the mast!

Check all exit blocks and lubricate then slowly work your way up the mast checking the gooseneck, paying particular attention to the pin, the boom and all lines and fittings on it.

At this point you will most likely find yourself at the spreader lights. Check they are working and that the lenses are clean and well sealed. Look closely at the wiring checking for chafe especially where it enters the mast.

At the masthead check all lights and fittings not forgetting the attachment of the stays.

Also clean and check your VHF aerial and clean the connections. CRC electrical contact cleaner and lubricator is good here. As mentioned before check all wiring, lubricate the sheave boxes and blocks including the roller furler swivel.

On the way down give the mast paint, varnish or a polish with a good quality cleaner polish such as "International Products". This helps protect the alloy, the anodizing, and helps stop black marks from the mast going on the headsails.

Lastly give the sail slides a spray of silicon as this will help the main go up the track without jamming and include you jib hank pins as well.


The condition and setting up of the sails will also have a great bearing on pointing ability. The H28 responds well to subtle changes in the positioning of the Genoa cars and the tension on the halyards of the main and Genoa. Also the backstay tension will affect the on wind performance and you will find on your boat to obtain best upwind speed in 12knots.

Fit tell tails (wools) to your Genoa and mainsail on both sides. (Available from your sail maker or chandlery in made up packs).

The over sheeting of the headsail will also cause the main to stall and back wind up the luff due to the slot between the main and headsail being closed up. The rule of thumb here is; if in doubt let it out!

The amount of kicking strap applied will control the twist in the leach of the main and this will also influence the amount of weather helm and pointing, as will the position of the mainsheet traveler, which you should be able to pull up past the boats centre line and to windward. This pulls the boom on to the centerline of the boat without flattening all the shape out of the mainsail and effectively opens the slot between the sails that I mentioned above.

All of these points and more are fully covered in the book I have mentioned. Quite often your sails will only need re-cutting which is much cheaper than a new suite. I have mentioned some of the main areas and it is really only through experimenting with settings on your own boat that will get peak performance when sailing.

Sail Care

Correct sail maintenance can make a large difference to the life and performance of your sails. Regardless of the sail material, a little care can help a lot.

Avoid flogging: Flogging and leech flutter are the worst causes of cloth deterioration. To maintain the shape and strength of your sails, minimize the amount of time they are flapping in the breeze. When hoisting a sail while motoring, don't go too fast and, if motor sailing, keep the main trimmed. Always keep the leech lines tight enough so that the leeches don't flutter.

Stretch: Using a sail in a higher wind range than what it was designed for is one of the quickest ways to destroy it. It is better to reduce sail before the wind does it for you.

Chafe: Any part of the boat or mast that a sail rubs against should be protected, and don't drag a sail over anything rough. Tape up spreader ends especially with leather etc.

Sunlight: While direct sunlight is one of the worst enemies of sails, you cannot keep your sails out of the sun unless you only sail when it is cloudy. You should, how- ever, keep your sails covered any time they are not being used, even if only for an hour or two.

Storage: Sails should only be stored dry, free of salt and folded or rolled into sail bags. Don't fold sails in the same place each time as you will finish up with permanent creases. If you have a damp sail at the end of a cruise, take it home to dry or, if unable to, stow it loosely in the boat as long as it is a well ventilated craft.

Cleaning: To get rid of most of the salt from a sail, a gentle hosing down regularly. To clean a sail of dirt, use a diluted solution of a mild cleaner and warm water. Contact your sail maker to advise a good cleaner suitable for your sails.

Folding: A folded or flaked sail will take up less room than one which is randomly stuffed into a bag, and it is much better for the life of the sail itself.

Headsails: To fold a genoa, start at the foot and fold in panels wide enough to fit in your stowage area. When the sail is entirely folded from foot to head, then fold both ends toward the middle leaving the tack on the outside of the last fold. It is preferable to have a large flat area to fold a sail - but rarely available - so you can fold on the cabin top using the boom as a feeder or fold on a marina using the boat as a feeder.

Mainsails: Can be easily stored on the boom by flaking it on to the boom and pulling the bottom fold out and wrapping it over the rest of the sail, then put a tie around the sail and boom or use shock- cord.
When the main is taken off the boom and mast it is folded from the foot the same as for a headsail.

Spinnakers: As long as they are dry, spinnakers or other nylon sails do not need to be folded. As long as the head and clews are gathered and the sail is not twisted, these sails are the only ones that can be stuffed into a bag.

Machine & Machinery


Your manual will set out the maintenance requirements here. Do not forget to check your motor anode and the impeller in the water pump.  Think of it is a good idea to replace your impeller each year and keep the old one as a backup.

Also a simple filter on your water intake line between the gate valve and the pump will save a lot of hassles with potential blockages. Wingate" make a simple clear inline tube one and these are available from farm stores, marine shops and garden centre. All hoses should be double hose clamped for safety and checked for wall softening or damage. Replace as necessary. A tip, get your hoses from your local "Hose Doctor" usually a lot more cost effective.

Water tanks and hoses

All water tanks should be flushed clean every year or two and especially if you can "taste" the water. This taste is caused by black algae in the tank or in the clear plastic hoses that runs to your pumps at the sink or the hand basin. Good potable water always contains some solids in suspension and over a period of time these settle out in the bottom of your water tanks.

The best way to drain the tanks is to use a spare piece of hose and connect one end to the tank outlet and the other to the inlet for the motor cooling water. Start your motor, make sure that it is out of gear so the propeller will not turn, and drain tanks and flush motor at the same time! If you don’t have inspection ports in the top of the tank to allow you to agitate the water then remove your deck filler plug and run a hose from the fresh water tap, turn on and stir up the sediment that way.

NOTE: do not let the motor run out of water so keep a good eye on it during this operation.

This procedure can be carried out either on the hard or in the water. (No you most likely won’t have a mains water faucet handy out on a mooring!) If you have clear plastic water carrying pipes I suggest that you change them for black food grade neoprene ones as this will stop any light getting to the water and inducing algae to grow. Enough light does get into the areas where these run for this problem to occur.

Finally you can obtain from you chemist "Milton" solution or water treatment tablets. These can help sweeten the tanks and it is well worth while to consider fitting a small inline activated charcoal filter and make sure that all tanks are well fastened to the hull. Remember that 1-gallon of water weighs 4.5kg so a full 40-gallon tank has 200kgs of potential kinetic energy. Check also that all hoses are securely attached to tail pieces.

TIP: If you ever suddenly find water over the floor boards taste it first as this will determine whether it is fresh or salt and help you to quickly narrow down the possible source.

Before you leave down below take a look at your batteries, gas lines, wiring, switches and lights and your fire extinguishers.

The propeller, shaft, stern tube and stuffing box

Look for wear in the stern tube bush by trying to move the shaft sideways. If you need to replace this you might need to remove the shaft depending on what type of bush you have. For a cut less bearing usually after removing the propeller with a proper prop puller, you can loosen the grub screw or clamp bolt on the side of the bronze housing and grip the cut less bearing with a pair of vice grips, and twist it out.

Most others require that the shaft be removed.

Don’t forget to replace your zinc anode.

When pulling the shaft out from the coupling at the back of the gearbox, if it is tight, place a slightly smaller diameter spacer between the end of the shaft and the gearbox coupling insert some longer coupling bolts through the two halves of the coupling and evenly tighten them up to press the shaft out. Do not use a hammer as this could burr the end of the shaft and when putting the shaft back into the coupling. Do not be tempted to hit the propeller end of the shaft to drive it home, while using the gearbox and engine as a dolly. This will result in the rear gearbox bearing being damaged. While the shaft is out, check for wear and straightness.  Roll it back and forth and watch to see if the ends wobble. If it does, or it is badly worn at the gland end or stern bearing end, get a new shaft made.

Check the stern tube. This connects the outer bearing housing with the inner stuffing box or shaft seal. This is usually a threaded length of copper or bronze tube. Several boats have had a hard to find leak from this area and have found that the stern tube had developed a hole or broken. To remove this assembly you need to unscrew the two outer lag screws, which hold the outer housing to the hull and then unscrew the outer housing and stern tube. Get your local marine engineering shop to turn you up a new one. Reinstall bedding, it down in plenty of high quality marine sealant.

Don’t forget to check your shaft to motor alignment. This should be done each year as the motor mounts do slowly compress. The easiest way is to make sure that the shaft and gearbox couplings are in line and that an equal gap exists between the coupling faces when they are in close proximity. Use a feeler gauge or a set space for this.


On deck strip and service all your winches including those on the mast and don’t forget to grease them well with grease. When you dismantle any winches always check that you block off the scuppers just incase you accidentally drop a pawl, spring or screw.

Check that all the Genoa track bolts are tight and well sealed, as this is a common area for leaks to occur.
An excellent idea here is to slightly countersink each hole in the deck as this enables the sealer to form a "O" ring, which ensures no leaks. This also applies to your stanchion bases, and bolts.

Give all your stainless a treat with a coat of reviver and polish and check the swages on the stanchion wires for corrosion or broken wires.

Have a look at the stays, rigging screws, clevis and cotter pins. Some lanolin grease here helps keep everything free and sealed. Put a little lanolin grease where the wire enters the swages on the bottle screw as this helps seal out water from wicking down the wire strands.

With the rigging wire that is used for the stays it pays to inspect the strands carefully and if you find a broken one replace the whole stay. The recommendation is that you replace all your rigging once every 10 years. Do not throw out the old ones, as these can be kept as an emergency spare. Also look at the spreader tips and make sure that they are bisecting the angle correctly and that the cap shrouds are wired into the ends and that a boot or insulation tape is wrapped well around the ends to protect your Genoa.

Check all your sheets and halyards and if they are showing slight signs of wear, end for end them. This applies for your anchor warps and chain. This is a good time to re-mark the chain and warp with either fathom, or 10-meter marks. Use paint on the chain and colored sailcloth or twine on the warp.

Make sure that all shackles and pins are tight, secure and seized.

The bitter end of the warp should be attached to an eye in the anchor well with some medium lashing to prevent the whole lot going over the side! Do Not shackle this to the eye, as one day you might need to let the whole lot go in an emergency and you won’t have time to fiddle with a spanner undoing a pin! Just cut the lashing with a knife! While checking all this out remembers to check your spare anchors stored below the floor and the dinghies tackle.

Hull Fittings

These include skin fittings, sea cocks, cockpit drains, and instrument fittings.

All skin fittings should be checked, no matter what material they are made from.

Bronze can corrode and be affected by stray electrical currents which may originate from your boat, underwater cables, a marina berth or the boat next to you. Look for signs of pitting or Verde grease, (green corrosion). If found, be suspicious and take them out check them over and replace if necessary.

Check for cracks or damage on composite plastic fittings and replace if necessary. Do not over tighten these just make them nice and snug.

Re-bed them with a good marine sealant (Not Plumbers silicon leaves this stuff for the plumbers to "play with")

When re- bedding any fitting it always pays to mask off and clean around the area of the fitting and be generous with the sealer.

Always lightly tighten the fitting so that sealer squeezes out evenly and leave for 2 days to allow the sealer to cure. Then give a final tighten to snug the fitting home. This will give you a much better seal as you have allowed a thin gasket to form.

After 2 days you can also trim off any excess sealer with a Stanley knife. To protect the thread while doing this and allow you to carry out the final tighten up put a little petroleum jelly or silicon grease on the area where the nut will be.

All through hull fittings should have a ply backing plate on the inside and under the nut.

Check for leaks between the thread and the seacock,(Valve) and the hose tailpiece.(if fitted). This is a good place to use PTFE tape (thread seal tape). This gives a good seal and makes it easy to remove valves and tailpieces.

Check that all valves are operating properly. The motto is to disassemble and lubricate with silicon grease every 3-4 years. OK, the Toilet outlet valve it just replace when it stiffens up!

Under no circumstances should BRASS gate valves be used anywhere there is salt water, always use bronze, reinforced plastic (RC marine type) or 316 stainless.

All hoses and hose clips should be checked and fit double hose clamps on all underwater through hull fittings.

Of course you will all have a softwood tapered plug of the right size tied to each through hull with light nylon cord "just in case a valve or skin fitting breaks off and in does cometh the sea".

What do you mean you haven’t yet, well now lets get that done too because there is no way you can hold your hand over a hole under, lets say the sink, and at the same time reach over and find the softwood plugs which are kept in the lazaretto! These plugs can be purchased from any good chandlery and are not expensive.


The hull is the part of your boat that keeps you floating and thus quite an important one. Keeping it in good shape is essential for a good sailing experience, and the effort to achieve this depends hugely on the type of Gulet you have. In this article, I outline the different basic maintenance tasks a neat hull requires.

In order to estimate the amount of care that will have to be dedicated to the hull, it is useful to think of the different materials it can be made of and the resulting specific maintenance needs.

The first material to think about is the classic one: Wood has been used in boat building ever since people have built boats. It looks good, feels natural, but is generally heavy and requires a great deal more work than GRP. The wood itself is always protected by at least one layer of paint, epoxy resin or other finish.

If this finish is damaged under physical pressure and parts of it rub off, the damage needs to be fixed to prevent water from getting in between the protective layer and the wood. It might be necessary to sand the affected area; for large-scale repairs, you might have to strip off a larger part of the hull. Take care to roughen the surface in order to increase the adhesion of the paint.

The finish on wooden hulls normally needs to be polished once a year. Fall is a good season for that, in the course of winterizing the boat. Depending on the quality and type of paint that you use, your finish should last for 3 to 7 years.

Hulls of some Gulets are made of metals, most commonly steel or aluminum; the are durable and require less work than wooden ones, however, don’t meet some (traditionalist) sailor’s aesthetic preferences and are not the ideal material for small boats. Much like wood, steel hulls come with a finishing layer of paint. Maintenance work for steel and wooden hulls is very similar, too.

Aluminum hulls are a different story; the material is light and very easy in maintenance, but expensive. If you apply paint to an aluminum hull, than essentially for aesthetic reasons – if they are left untreated, you will save on work and the metal’s surface will oxidize over time to an elegant gray. If you choose to paint the hull, it requires similar maintenance as steel hulls.

Tuesday, October 1, 2013

Concept Yachts